Sunday, April 15, 2012

Peru- The Next Chapter

One of the Floating Islands
After enjoying some much needed solo time in Lima, I prepared to meet my Mom for two weeks of travelling fun. She had decided to come down to Peru and visit me and we’d planned a jam packed itinerary including Lake Titicaca, Cuzco, the Amazon Jungle and Lima. I met her in the airport, looking like she was ready to take on the world with a backpack and a big smile. Our first stop was Puno to tour Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.

Upon arrival, the evil altitude monster immediately began to rear its ugly head, daring us to brave the 4000m altitude. Despite feeling less than fantastic, we hopped aboard the slowest boat known to mankind to the first destination on our agenda, the floating islands of Uros. The Uros people made their homes on these islands hundreds of years ago to avoid confrontations with the powerful Inca Empire. Approximately 3-10 families inhabit each island, living the same way they did hundreds of years ago. The islands are constructed out of tortora reeds which need to be replenished every 3 months. Not only do they make their homes and boats from the same type of reed, but they also eat the roots for iodine. We had the opportunity to taste some of the roots and learn about the way of life of the Uros people. It was interesting, albeit slightly alarming, to be walking upon a man made island constructed of essentially straw, but it was quite interesting to see how the Uros people lived with so little. All of their food and supplies have to be brought across the lake from Puno, as nothing can grow on the islands. 


Mama Olga and Sister Lourdes preparing dinner
After taking a ride on one of their traditional boats, we headed off to the next island on our agenda, Amantani, where we’d be spending the night with a local family. Our new “mamas” or sister in our case, were waiting for us on the bank to take us to our homes for the night. Huffing and puffing and nearly collapsing from the altitude inflicted torture, we attempted to follow our sister, Lourdes, up the never ending hill to our home for the night. I wasn’t sure who was going to have to carry who up the hill between my Mom and I, but thankfully we made it up in one piece. Our room was simple yet pleasant with three beds. The house was small with mud floors on the main floor, a kitchen, a couple of bedrooms and a washroom for the tourists out front (with a toilet that you had to manually flush with a jug of water!). Opting not to hike to the top of the island to visit a temple with the rest of the group, (heck, we barely made it to the house!), my Mom and I decided to take a leisurely walk around the island, trying to wrap our heads around the degree of poverty we were witnessing. The island was quiet, clean and serene with striking views of the lake. The air was crisp, pure and infinitely fresh with no car emissions, radiation or smog. It was pure and unspoiled, just how nature intended. 


I think we should bring this style to the T.Dot.
What do you think?
At dinner that evening, we met the entire family: Mama Olga, Papa Ignacio, eldest sister Lourdes (19), younger sister Celia (16), and little brother Wilbur (15). It's customary to bring small gifts of food for the families to thank them for your visit, so we brought ours a bag of rice and sugar. Thinking that there may be small children, we also brought a pencil case filled with gel pens and a colouring kit. Despite being teenagers, all three of them thanked us profusely for the gifts and looked genuinely excited by them. Lourdes and Celia were enchanted by the gel pens and Wilbur loved the colouring kit. A 16 year old North American boy would have laughed in your face if you brought him a colouring book, but not this boy. He was infinitely grateful for it as his mother looked on with her beautiful, contented smile. She just sat by the fire on a stool and cooked on the mud stove, chatting with her family and smiling. I felt so blessed to be sitting there observing their family. It was almost surreal, as if I was watching it on TV. The family spoke mainly Quechua, an ancient Inca language, but Lourdes and Wilbur spoke Spanish and a bit of English so we were able to communicate with them. They excitedly answered all of our questions about their way of life and just as eagerly asked us about our lives. 

That night, they dressed us up in traditional wear and held a party for us. We had an awesome time learning their traditional dances and socializing with everyone. The next morning, we had a quick breakfast, took some photos with the family, and then we were off to the island of Taquile for more crazy trekking.


Left to right: Wilbur, Lourdes, Ignacio, Olga & Celia

I will never forget our family on Amantani Island. They were incredibly hospitable, amazingly sweet and so darn content with so little. They are truly an inspiration to all of us materialistic Westerners. You don't have to be rich to be happy- case in point!

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