Day One of the Inca Trail





About to Embark on a Dream Journey!

 As we sat in our orientation session the night before our big trek, I heard something that jarred my very soul. "Meet at 4:30am in the square". Ummm.. pardon?! Does that time even exist?! But sure enough, our group of 6 trekkers was instructed to meet at the ungodly hour of 4:30 am to begin our trek. After an exhausting day touring the Sacred Valley, my Dad and I hurried home to get packed and catch some shut eye before our early morning meeting time. We had every intention of getting into bed early... except we didn't. After maybe an hour of sleep, we dragged our tired butts to the square to meet our equally sleepy trek mates. All six of us piled into a van filled with less than pleasant smelling porters. Eager to catch up on some sleep on our two hour bus ride to Ollantaytambo where we'd stop for breakfast, we pulled down our hats and snuggled in for the ride. All hopes of a nap were dashed when the porters decided to engage in an outrageously loud and animated conversation and play reggaeton at a volume that could only be considered illegal for that time of the morning. After stopping off in Ollantaytambo for a quick breakfast, the bus dropped us off to km 82, the start of the Inca Trail, or Camino Inka en Espanol.



Our sleepiness soon turned to pure excitement as the fact that we were finally on the Inca Trail registered in our still foggy brains. As the day progressed, however, those smiles soon turned to brows furrowed in determination and the occasional barely audible swear word. My Dad and I had decided not to spend the extra $120 per person to have our bags carried. Biggest mistake EVER! Carrying my 40-50lb bag uphill and downhill for hours was the most treacherous thing I've ever done, my pack weighing me down and bruising my hip bones with each step I took. The halfway resting point where we'd stop for lunch and a quick siesta was like a carrot dangling in front of us. "It's only two hours away", the guide encouraged us. Well let me tell you, it was the longest two hours of life. That campsite MUST HAVE kept moving further and further away with each step we took. That’s the only logical explanation. On route, two of our fellow trekkers came running back to us, clearly alarmed. Turns out, there was a stray bull on the road and they were terrified to walk past it. It was especially funny because one of them was wearing red! Erring on the side of caution, we climbed up the bank and waited for it to pass. Along the way, we also encountered a snake (dead, thank God!) and what appeared to be semi-domesticated horses with no owners. We yielded to the wild animals in an attempt to avoid becoming road kill before even seeing Machu Picchu.



As I walked, all I could focus on was making it to lunch. One foot in front of the other. I couldn't even take in the breathtaking scenery for fear of plowing through the mini mountains of llama/donkey/horse poo that lined the trail. Finally, when I literally couldn't take another step, we arrived at the campsite to a chorus of cheers and high fives from our porters. They had gone up ahead to cook lunch and set everything up. Although I could barely stay awake and my feet felt like they'd be stabbed 1000 times with rusted razors, I quite enjoyed the lunch. It was amazing what they could put together with a camp stove and supplies that they brought on their backs. We had an avocado appetizer, soup, fish and vegetables. Everything was well prepared and beautifully presented. After lunch, we had precious little time for a siesta. Not caring about anything but the pain and exhaustion, I lay down on a tarp on the ground and feel into a deep slumber. What felt like moments later, it was time to go again. I managed to hire a porter on the spot who would take my bag for the rest of the trek. Thank God! I wouldn't have been able to make it with that bag. It felt like I was carrying an elephant on my back. Dad, on the other hand, kept his bag despite an injured knee. I don't know how he did it!



The toilets on the trail made the public toilets in Peru seem like a dream, and trust me, that takes A LOT! These toilets were basically just toilet bowls embedded into the ground. I had no idea what to do when I walked into one for the first time. Let's just say it's not a part of the Inca Trail that I will look back on fondly!

As we continued on the trek, our guide repeatedly told us that today was the easy day and the next day would be the hardest one of the trek. Today was easy?! For who?? The Incas maybe! The next day we'd be headed up the steepest ascent: 4200m above sea level to Warmiwanusca, also known as Dead Woman's Pass. Now there's a comforting name!

 When we finally arrived at our campsite after about 6 hours of trekking, it felt like I had reached heaven itself. After our "happy hour" consisting of hot tea and snacks, we debated staying awake to bring in the New Year, but couldn't fathom the thought of keeping our eyes open any longer. As I cuddled into my sleeping bag, I wondered what the heck had possessed me to walk this trail instead of taking the comfortable train. I tried to psych myself up for the next day, telling myself that I had been dreaming of this moment for years. Then it truly dawned on me just where I was- in a tent in the Andes, traveling along the trail that Incas had travelled so many years before. This was my dream, and here I was actually doing it! By 8pm on News Year Eve 2011, after approximately 16 kms of trekking, we were all fast asleep, snug in our tents, 3800m above sea level.

I Live, I Work, I Love



Photo taken by a friend on our tour, Silvia. Andean woman walking
through the cobblestone streetsof Ollantaytambo, a gorgeous Inca town



I think the thing I love the most about Peru is the abundance of history that can be found in every corner. It's like, oh yeah, the hostel you're staying in was an old Inca site and this mural that we found in one of the rooms is hundreds of years old. It's amazing really, and something we're not at all accustomed to in our young country.



Picture taken in the Sacred Valley
by Silvia. Thanks, Silvia!
Doesn't this llama look terrifying?!



We've finally fully acclimatized to the altitude after several days and numerous mugs of coca tea, but I'm beginning to feel like we're running out of time for the Inca Trail. It's quickly approaching and I'm starting to feel a little apprehensive. Not just due to the physical challenge that lies ahead, but also, the thought of going off the grid for four days, the longest in my cellular-ly obsessed youth, is a bit daunting. Can I do it? Can I go without Facebook, email, websurfing and talking to my boyfriend for four whole days?! Well... I won't have a choice, now will I! 



Fortunately for me, I've had little time to allow my apprehension to fester. Dad and I went on a tour of the Sacred Valley today. We drove through amazing little villages nestled in the Andes, stopping off in Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero, where we market hopped, visited several ruins and took in some breathtaking scenery. This tour, however, reinforced just how disgusted I am with the colonization of the Inca people. There was one site, I believe it was in Chinchero, where the Spaniards tore down an Inca palace and built a church. They also broke down other structures to build their own. Although I didn't have the opportunity to see it, there is also a church in Cuzco that's covered in mirrors. These mirrors were used to attract and subsequently convert curious Quechua people. How disgusting! Seeing this type of disrespect in the name of Jesus really makes me wonder...



The Chakana





On the tour, they explained the significance of the Inca cross, known as the Chakana, which we saw examples of in the ruins of Ollantaytambo, Q'enqo and Sacsayhuaman. It's actually pretty amazing. To give you a quick synopsis, the centre of the Chakana represents Pachamama, which is Mother Earth, a goddess worshipped by the people of the Andes. It can also represent Cuzco, considered to be the centre of the Inca empire. The cross has twelve points, each which represent the following notions and affirmations:

Worlds: The Underworld, the Current World, the Upper World

Spirit Animals: The Snake, the Puma, the Condor

A real life example of a Chakana on the wall of the
Ollantaytambo Ruins

Affirmations: I Live, I Work, I Love

Commandments: Don't Lie, Don't Steal, Don't be Lazy

One half of the cross is representative of males, the other of females. The four main points represented the cardinal points and the four elements, water, air, fire and earth. I absolutely love the significance behind this cross! You know me... I've already purchased a beautifully crafted Chakana made out of shells for my travel charm bracelet and I will be getting a pendant as well. History and shopping... two passions that go oh-so well together!

"If You Can't Feed a Hundred People, Then Just Feed One" - Mother Teresa



Precious children eagerly waiting to be served

If you're ever in Cuzco, please find your way to this one particular Indian restaurant called Maikhana. For 15 soles, you can feast on a lovely buffet that includes both meat and vegetarian options. Not only is the food great at this family run restaurant, but it goes beyond just feeding your belly. This family, consisting of a mother, father and two adorable young children, singlehandedly feed hundreds of children in small villages in the Andes each week. Using nearly half of their profits, these selfless souls cook delicious, wholesome food and ladle it out to hungry children whose diet typically consists of one boiled potato per day. Our hostel, Loki, is in the midst of creating a partnership with Maikhana where they'd organize charity tours for hostel guests to volunteer their time to help feed the children. Somehow we managed to convince the amazing staff of Loki to take us along on a trip to work out the details of the tour. There were about thirteen of us who drove to a small village in the Andes called Ccatcca. As we got into the town, we picked up police escorts who crammed into the van with us. 



Simultaneously heartbreaking and beautiful



Nothing could prepare me for what I was about to experience. As our van pulled into the lot, groups of children began running after it, smiling happily as if they'd been waiting all day for our arrival. My stomach dropped as I realized they were all clutching their own little bowls, or for some, just clear plastic bags. The police had the children line up in two orderly lines according to gender. Watching these precious babies walk up in small groups, hold out their bowl or bag for food, and walk away with a huge smile was more than I could handle. It was humbling and overwhelming; beautiful, yet heartbreaking. My soul cried for these beautiful little children with their reddened, wind chapped cheeks. I silently prayed for these children's welfare and for the hands that so selflessly fed them, as I simultaneously cursed the utter unfairness of life. How could these innocent lives suffer so much while our babies at home get iPhones and laptops?! It's just so unbelievably unfair. My eyes kept welling up with tears, but I couldn't allow myself to cry in front of them. I had the opportunity to ladle out the food for them and my Lord was it incredible. To think, I helped to ensure that a few children got a least one decent meal. Everyone who was there had a chance to help feed the children, which was nice for us but had devastating consequences. The food wasn't properly rationed which meant a few children at the end of the line didn't get any. How horrific. Imagine being a hungry child waiting in line, watching all of these children before you get food, only to discover that nothing's left for you. Ugh. Heartbreaking beyond words. :(

For basically $250, a bus with volunteers can feed a couple hundred hungry children in various small towns. I know money is tight for everyone everywhere, but seeing these children first hand, I know they need it more than we do. Friends, family and blog readers, after seeing something like this firsthand, I would like to humbly ask if you can find it in your heart to donate some money to this ever so worthy cause. I promise you I will see to it that this money goes directly to the children and no where else. I know people are often reluctant to donate overseas because they don't know if the children receive it, but I can assure you, I saw firsthand that these children directly reap the benefits. Please, if you can skip a few lattes and bar nights and set aside a few dollars, it would mean a full stomach for one of these beautiful children. Here is your opportunity to truly make a difference in the life of a hungry child. If you're interested in donating, please email me at jessica.dowlatsingh@gmail.com and we can make it happen. Also, stay tuned once I get back to Toronto. I'm planning a fundraiser. These hungry babies will NOT be forgotten! 

Llamas, Snakes & Incas

Milk for the baby llama!

We spent "Boxing Day" exploring beautiful Cuzco and wandering outside of the tourist area. These two Andean ladies spotted me from across the street and practically flew to my side. "Picture with baby llama?" they asked, pointing to a tiny llama tucked away in a sling carried by one of the women. From my experience in Cozumel at the Mayan ruins and in Miami with killer parrots and giant snakes, I knew this picture would set us back a few soles (Peruvian dollars), but we didn't expect to be charged a whopping 10 soles for one picture. "Milk for the baby llama!!" they explained. Of course lol.

Overlooking one of the structures at Sacsaywaman

Later that week we decided to ditch the conventional tours and take a local (albeit slightly stinky) bus up to furthest Inca ruin from town, Tambomachay. This site, known as El Bano del Inca (The Bath of the Inca), featured a gorgeous ceremonial stone bath that channeled spring water through the fountains. This particular site has been connected to an Inca water cult. Here at Tambomachay, we met an American pilot named Eric who joined us for the rest of our 10 km walk back into Cuzco, passing three other ruins on the way. At Pukapukara, an area thought to be a either a guard post or a rest stop for travellers, we took some amazing photos at the edge of a cliff. The pictures don't do it justice- the drop was surreal. And there we were, dangling our feet off the edge like it was nothing! Sitting on the edge of the cliff overlooking postcard perfect scenery, a wave of appreciation washed over me. I felt overwhelmingly grateful for the opportunity that I've been given to experience life in another part of the world. Between parasites and altitude sickness, exhaustion and home sickness, I do realize just how blessed I am to be on this journey.

At Pukapukara, we came across a little cave that my Dad just HAD to explore. And of course, he wanted me to join him. There was a billboard at the front of the site explaining all of the animals that lived in and around Pukapukara, and snakes were among them. Praying that we weren't intruding in a snake's home, I hopped in for a quick pic. It was on our way OUT that my dad decided to point out the discarded snake skin, mere metres away from where I had just posed for a picture.

After Pukapukara, we explored another ruin called Q'enqo, a site used for ceremonial sacrifice and mummy preparation. Afterwards, we headed to probably the most spectacular ruin in Cuzco, Sacsaywaman, which is pronounced like "sexy woman". The ninth Inca, Pachacutec, envisioned the city of Cuzco to be in the shape of a big puma. Used for both military and religious reasons, Sacsaywaman represented the head of the puma. The sprawling ruins were gorgeous, immense and immaculately constructed. It was an incredible feeling to walk through their caves and across their battlegrounds so many centuries after their existence. You could tell that large rocks were missing from some of the structures. Indeed, the Spaniards had stolen rocks from the Inca to build their own homes in Cuzco. How rude!

As we explored the site, the sun began to sink deeper and deeper into the evening sky, reminding us that it was time to make the long trek down the mountain and back to the hostel. I started to feel a little creeped out as we trampled through the ruins, which had been the site of one of the bloodiest battles of the Spanish conquest in 1536. As the sky darkened, we made a pit stop at the Christo Blanco (White Christ statue that overlooks Cuzco) to snap a few quick shots, and then finally found our way to the dark road that wound down the mountain. With no lights besides the dim glow of our flashlights, we slowly made our way down the hill as the last of the taxis and buses drove past us. Luckily, the Inca spirits and wayward llamas decided to spare us and we arrived back at Loki unscathed, albeit out of breath and exhausted! After walking nearly 15km at around 3700m above sea level, I feel like I can sleep for a week. Goodnight!

Christmas in Cuzco



Watching Christmas fireworks with my Daddy in Cuzco!



Maybe it was the fact that I had already suffered through a parasite infection and the universe felt bad for me, but somehow I seem to be escaping the altitude sickness monster unscathed. My Dad, on the other hand, doesn’t seem to be so lucky. From what I hear, it feels like the world’s worst hangover… times ten! After resting for several hours while our fellow Loki-ites counted down to Christmas in different time zones, we heard fireworks going off around 11:30pm. Dad decided that sick or not, he was going to wake up to see Christmas in. We did a “Christmas countdown” in the courtyard with the other hostel guests and then rushed outside to see the fireworks. In the moment I first stepped out of the hostel and saw the illuminated sky above the Cuzco city line, I thought to myself, this one view has been worth all of the sacrifices and hardships so far. It was the single most amazing, most spectacular sight I’ve seen in my entire life and I only wish words and pictures could convey the beauty of the moment. The sky was ablaze with fireworks in every direction, far exceeding any firework show I’ve seen before. There were kids lighting fireworks in the street and, because the road was cobblestone and therefore there was nowhere to anchor them, there were fireworks going off in every direction. It got a bit dangerous, so we ducked into an alleyway that led us to a hill with an unobstructed view of Cuzco’s sky line. Here we met two Loki staff members and spent the next hour or so chatting and enjoying the amazing Christmas fireworks that lasted nearly two hours!

The next day, Christmas Day, we enjoyed a sumptuous North American style Christmas dinner at the hostel, complete with stuffing and mulled wine before heading back out to explore the city. I bought an alpaca hat and sweater to ward off the Andean chill and Dad got a pair of alpaca gloves. We had the opportunity to attend the last few minutes of Christmas mass where everyone was carrying a little adorned Christ Child in a basket. It was kind of odd to see everyone carrying a doll, but it’s a neat tradition. Knowing what I do now about the Spanish conquest, the Latin devotion to the Catholic religion doesn’t quite sit well with me, but I guess it has become their history and tradition now.

Overall, Christmas in Cusco has been quite magical and breathtakingly beautiful and although I miss my family and friends back home like crazy, I’m so happy to be in this gorgeous city with my Dad! Merry Christmas, everyone!

Mucho Gusto, Cuzco!

View of the Andes from the plane

After getting over the shock that hot water actually came out of the tap, (what a novel idea!), I spent what felt like hours trying to wash off the grime that bucket showers inevitably leave behind. Oh, how I miss hot showers!! The next morning, after only a couple of hours of sleep at the Flying Dog Hostel, we headed to the airport for our flight to Cuzco. After checking our bags, we had time to spare before boarding for breakfast and a chai latte. As we were eating, we heard an announcement in Spanish that sounded vaguely like our last names, but with still half hour before our boarding time, we weren’t overly concerned. We decided to head down to the gate anyway to make sure all was well. Enter transportation stress situation #1. As we lined up, we were practically pulled out of line by an exasperated Star Peru employee. “You’re the last ones! Please hurry!” she screamed. Much to everyone in the line's dismay, she shepherded us to the front of a very long security line and rushed us on through. “Please HURRY!” she pleaded. Pretty much running like our life depended on it, we managed to make it onto our plane in the nick of time. Thank you, Random Star Peru Employee, for managing to track down us crazy brown folk and make sure we made our flight! <3

Our flight to Cuzco was short with absolutely stunning scenery. Flying over the Andes was breathtaking and allowed me a moment to really take in the beauty of what I was doing. As we drove through the streets of Cuzco, I was in absolute awe at the sights and sounds. Worlds apart from both Lima and Talara, I realized how blessed I am to be able to experience yet another unique area of Peru.

Our hostel, Loki, is located at the top of a beautiful, steep, cobblestone road with stairs that look like they were built for giants! It’s on a incline that would normally be relatively manageable at sea level, but at 11152 ft (3399 m) above sea level here in Cuzco, it makes us huff and puff more than the big bad wolf himself. It’s actually pretty hilarious to watch all of the foreigners walk up the stairs. Splotchy cheeks, face down, focusing on taking one step at a time, and not saying a word for fear of expending the last bit of energy they have left.

The road leading up to our hostel

After dropping our bags off at Loki, we headed to the main square, or the Plaza de Armas, where we were quite lucky  to stumble upon a market that takes place only once per year on Christmas Eve. The air was heavily fragranced with the smell of incense and jam packed with vendors hawking everything from alpaca hats to Spanish moss and accessories for nativity scenes. Curiously, there were a lot of stalls selling tiny doll clothes and shoes that seemed to be all the rage. I would later realize that this doll paraphernalia was used to accessorize the Baby Jesus dolls that everyone, man, woman and child, would carry around with them in a small cradle on Christmas Day. Although it began to rain heavily, my Dad and I were well prepared and waterproofed down to our toes! We wouldn’t let a little a rain dampen our spirits. Although we were protected from both the rain and the cold, nothing in our North American arsenal had prepared us for altitude sickness, who decided to rear its ugly head on our first day...

A Bad Day on the Road Still Beats a Good Day Behind a Desk

My Dad was scheduled to arrive in Lima on Thursday morning at 7:15am. When I hadn't heard from him by 11am, I was a bit concerned. By 7pm, I was panicked and by 11pm I was in full blown hysterics. I had meticulously pondered every possible reason for the delay and the fact that he hadn't contacted me, and the most logical answer that I could come up with was that he had been detained by immigration! Then I started pondering which was worse: being a brown man detained in the U.S. or a gringo detained in Peru. Needless to say, I was worried sick. On top of that, I just found out that a loved one at home had recently fallen ill and I had no idea. I haven't felt sad or upset or really any negative emotions since regaining my health, but I was overwhemingly sad, worried and frustrated at the chain of events and my utter helplessness. It's so difficult to be in a remote town 6000 kms away and not be able to do anything to help your loved ones.

Anyway, after an agonizing 19 hours sitting by my computer, wrestling with my ridiculously temperamental internet connection, my Dad finally contacted me. Turns out his first flight was delayed, igniting a chain of reactions that resulted in him having to take four separate flights with no wifi connection to be found. The cherry on top? They lost his luggage too! Luckily, he was reunited with his bag shortly after.

Next on the agenda, I had to make my way to Lima. One of the directors at my school was concerned about my plan to take a mototaxi to the airport, so they ensured I got into a reputable one and snapped a photo of what I presume was the mototaxi's license plate. I clearly told the driver in perfect Spanish, (I even double checked!), that I needed to go to the airport. Somehow, he interpreted that as a bus terminal to Piura. Frantically trying to arrive at the airport on time, I hopped into another moto. For some reason, this driver thought it'd be best for me to take a bus from a different terminal. After convincing him that the airport was really and truly the only place I wanted to go, we set off in the right direction... Or that's what we were trying to do until another mototaxi came careening into the side of ours. Seeing as the only thing standing between me and the metal of the other mototaxi was a flimsy piece of curtain, I was one blessed chiquita to escape with only a minor bump. After making my way to the airport with all limbs satisfactorily attached to my body, I settled into my plane seat for a peaceful journey, whilst visions of reuniting with my Dad danced in my head. The sky, however, had a different idea for our flight, one which didn't involve daydreams and relaxation. Instead, it involved arm rest death grips and silent prayers as we jerked and bobbed our way into Lima. Even the stewardesses had to abandon their drink service and retreat back to their seats at one point! Once again saying a prayer of thanks that I had arrived in one piece yet again, I landed in Lima and happily reunited with my Dad. It's only been 3 weeks to the day since my affair with Peru began (happy travel anniversary to me!), but it feels like forever since I've seen him and the rest of my loved ones. We briefly explored Miraflores and we're now preparing for our early morning flight into Cuzco tomorrow. Look out you adorable alpacas (who are no doubt reading this blog lol) I'm coming for you!

I'm Dreaming of a Cuzquenian Christmas

Enjoying some beer at Pub Caleta.
Can you believe I'm a beer drinker now?!

So after a week and a half of teaching (and partying! Peruvians suuuuure know how to party!), I'm off to Cuzco to spend Christmas with my Dad. Christmas in Cuzco. Sounds kind of poetic!

I've actually had a lot of fun in Talara so far. My classes are amazing and I actually look forward to teaching everyday. My students all came up to me and kissed my cheek goodbye and wished me a "Happy Christmas". Some even brought me gifts! So sweet! I won't see my kids until March as they're on their summer holidays now, but the adults will return in January.

Aside from a slight maggot issue in our garbage (Thank God for one of my roommates who decided it was a man's job to deal with gross things like that!) things have been pretty easy going and relaxed this side of Peru. I'm falling into an easy, stress free routine and actually really enjoying it. I'm starting to become less grossed out by things (I picked up a bug with my bare hands! And, on a separate occassion, I found a bug in my bed, got rid of it, and hopped back into bed! That's definitely a first for me!)

Tomorrow I board my third flight in three weeks to head to Lima to meet up with my Dad. Finally, someone I know will be on the same continent as I am! This time, though, Lima can keep it's stupid souvenirs. No more parasites for me, thank you very much! I'm going to do everything possible to ensure my Dad doesn't get any souvenirs, either! One of the things I miss a lot about Canada is not having to be weary about everything I'm eating and drinking. But, it's all part and parcel of exotic travel, I guess.

I'm incredibly excited about Cuzco and absolutely cannot wait to hike the Inca Trail. What an amazing way to bring in the new year!

Life Goes On, Parasite or Not

Well, after five days in bed, I'd had enough of being sick! I put on some clean clothes (which is quickly becoming a rare commodity!), applied some make-up and went to teach! It's amazing how good it feels to fix my hair and put on make-up! I'm a real human being again! It's kind of hilarious though- I work for one week and then I'm off to Lima and Cuzco for Christmas break!



My amazing roommates in my classroom

 My classes are lovely! The students are friendly, eager and welcoming. The classrooms are basic but adequate and I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the attendance sheet and everyone's names. Latin people carry their first name, middle name, maternal last name and their paternal last name. Try figuring out their first name! Totally name overload! It's also been hilarious trying to define some words in English. For example, how do you define "too" and "enough"? LOL! The students call me "Teacher" and "Meeees". It's adorable and endearing. Some students greet you with a kiss on the cheek, which seems to be the Peruvian way to greet people. It startled me at first as it's so unlike our North American stay-ten-feet-away-from-me-or-I'll-punch-you perspective, but it's sweet and growing on me.

As I'm settling into life in Talara, I'm realizing what a great opportunity I have here. It's amazing that I just took my TESL course this year and I'm already employed in my field in my preferred location.

Anyway, after this parasite experience, I don't think I can ever take my health for granted again. I'm looking forward to experiencing more of Talara now that I can actually leave my bed!!

It's a Bird, It's a Plane... It's a Parasite?!



Sick lil' me and my doc!

 I'm still sick! :( For some strange reason, I've been dreaming of deceased family members, which has been simultaneously creepy and nice. Nice simply because it gave me a chance to say goodbye to certain people that I didn't have a chance to in real life, and creepy because... well when isn't it creepy to dream of dead people?!

Anyway, because regular food poisoning and benign illnesses don't typically last as long as this, the school director decided that I needed to see a doctor. Thankfully, there was no mention of the dreaded state hospital. Instead, he arranged for their family doctor to make a housecall. I was home by myself and heard a knock at the door. I wasn't sure if it was him or not, but I let him in anyway, silently wishing I had remembered to throw my Leatherman into my pocket. Although he didn't speak a word of English, he and I communicated fairly well with the help of charades and my iPhone dictionary until the school director and his daughter arrived to help translate. Shortly after their arrival, the messenger with results of a test I had done earlier arrived.



My very own
"it-sucks-you-have-a-parasite-don't-die-on-me"
care kit

 Drum roll please.... I am now the proud owner of bacteria and parasites! Ugh. How insane! Trust me to get parasites within a few days of arriving! Based on the timing, they think I got it in Lima. They said it's better that way, as it would have been worse if I got it in Talara first. Yay- thanks for the souvenir, Lima! They have me on three different types of meds- one for the parasites, one for the bacteria and one for the pain. My school director brought me a "it-sucks-you-have-a-parasite-don't-die-on-me" care kit consisting of water con gas (carbonated water), Gatorade, electrolyte drinks, crackers, meds and dinner ingredients for a basic, bland diet. The pic above is a horrible one, but I had to include it because it was so random! I asked the doctor if I could take a picture of him (definite blog material!) but he said I had to be in it, too! So there I am, looking like death after days of being sick in bed. HOT STUFF!

This kind of travel is so cyclical, such an emotional rollercoaster. Some days, I love it, some days I hate it and want to run for the airport in the middle of the night (yeah, try that with all the stray dogs milling about!) But considering the fact that I have a parasite, feel like death, and I'm in a foreign country by myself, I think I'm doing pretty well mentally. I decided to name my parasite Pepe. I'm going to convince him that we're bffs and then kill him muhahaha! (Ok, well maybe saying I'm doing well mentally was a bit of a stretch! LOL! I seriously think it's the medication talking!) I think I'm a pretty adaptable traveller! Next trip is a cruise though, ok? Let's make it luxurious. Or at least short term. It's kind of metaphorical- as I get rid of this parasite I think I'm also getting rid of my travel bug. At least my long term one. Alright, I'm off to slay my parasite!

There's No Place Like Home

OMG. I've been so sick. I've barely left my bed in the past two days. Yesterday was terrible! I was weak and losing consciousness and I knew I was going to hit the floor so I chose instead to lay down on that disgusting floor! Worst couple of days of life. Fever, chills, severe abdominal pain, nausea, and fainting spells. Being alone and sick in a foreign country is probably one of the worst feelings imaginable. One of my roommates was telling me that a friend of the director's died in a state hospital due to mistreatment. There's no way I'm going to let myself get to that point. I just want my mom and my apartment... anywhere but this stupid town. And oh, look, here's a great way to stay hydrated- we just ran out of filtered water and won't be getting anymore until the morning. So much for that! As for tap water, which isn't drinkable, it only gets delivered to Talara every two days. What kind of bizarre world have I found myself in and where are my parents?!?! I hope and pray I get better soon. This is harder than I ever imagined possible!

Me + Talara = Friends?



Moto-taxis that cost S/1.50-S/2.00 (approx $1)
to get anywhere in town

 Last night was actually a lot of fun. My roommates and I played drinking games and didn't go to sleep until sunrise! When I finally managed to get out of bed this morning, I went to the market with one of my roommates. Navigating the market seems to be an artform all its own! Whole chickens are laid out on countertops and fresh veggies and fruits are abundant. It was nice to see that there's an actual town here. All I've seen so far are dusty side roads so the fact that there are actual stores and a "down town" area is reassuring.



Would you like flies with that?

 Afterwards, I observed the classes that I'll be taking over and they seem great. They range in age from 10 to adult and pre-elementary to intermediate. The school is a mere five minutes from my new home, making it super convenient for the punctually challenged such as myself. It was interesting to observe the secretary refilling the dry erase markers instead of replacing it with a new one. Now imagine how much waste we'd reduce if we did things like that in North America!

It's funny- yesterday I hated this place so much but today I can see myself falling into an easy routine here: sleep in until whenever, lounge about, work from 5pm-9:30pm, beach/drinking on days off... and my roommates seem awesome! We chatted a lot about our lives and our loves and started to get to know each other. Living with people will be an adjustment, but it looks like it's going to be a lot of fun!



Gotta keep our liquor cabinet stocked!

 It's pretty cool to be able to call myself an expat, and furthermore, to only work 4.5 hours per day! It was also nice to be back in a classroom. Laundry and mototaxis are cheap, as are most things here it seems. I've found that I'm speaking/learning little to no Spanish here in comparison to Lima. We speak English at school as well as at home. So that kind of sucks! I've also noticed that the urgency of my agenda has changed. From my coloured coded, prioritized Filofax in Toronto, my list now has headings like "Tonight/Soon" lol!

I took an enormous leap of faith coming not only to Lima, but especially to Talara, having no idea what I would find here. Yesterday I was overwhelmed and unsure of my decision, but today I'm feeling much better about the opportunities that lie ahead. I think I might like you, Talara. Just a little.

Toto, I'm Definitely Not in Kansas Anymore

Oh God. What have I gotten myself into?!? Those were the exact words that went through my head as we landed in Talara. I've done a lot of crazy things in my life, but this definitely tops it all. As we flew into Talara, all I saw was desert, desert and more desert. No towns, no roads. I was thinking that this couldn't be it. Surely the school director would have warned me. I entered the airport that was no bigger than my apartment in Toronto and waited on them to trolley my bag over from the plan. I spotted a "gringo" in the airport that I could only assume was my school director. He greeted me warmly and off we went, on our journey into the biggest culture shock of my life. Words cannot express what I felt as we drove into town. Shanty towns with tiny cardboard boxed sized straw homes, dusty mountains, mototaxis, crazy roads, stray dogs... omg. I can't even tell you. The apartment is like nothing I've seen before, not even in Trinidad. It's dusty, dirty and the bathroom is something out of a nightmare. There are bugs in the fridge and it smells like something died in there. There was a male teacher living in my room before me so there's a framed collage of bikini clad women on the wall. The only saving grace so far is the school director and my roommates, who all seem amazing. I just chatted with one of them and it sounds like we all might have a good time together.

Dear God, I don't know what the eff I've gotten myself into but I hope and pray it'll all work out. If not, I'm hopping on the next plane back to Lima. I felt at home there. I could see myself being comfortable there. Here?!?! I don't know. I bawled my eyes out as soon as the director left me alone in my new home. This place is so alien to me. It's culture shock to the fullest.

After briefly visiting the school, my roommates and I grabbed a mototaxi (S1.50-S2.00 = approximately $0.60-$0.80 to anywhere in Talara) to Challes, the local grocery store where we stocked up on rum and groceries for a whopping $15! Anyway, it's been an overwhelming first day. Let's see what tomorrow has in store for me.

Adios, Lima. Hasta Luego!

So I'm extremely nervous to leave Lima for Talara. At least there are some comforts of home here. I bought myself a chai latte before departure, figuring it'd be my last one for a long time! As my departure draws neared, I'm starting to feel nauseated and slightly faint. Is it nerves? Heat? I'm not sure. A little bit of Inka Kola (basically carbonated bubble gum) might save the day.

It's interesting how much we as solo travellers have to put our trust in other people. For example, at Pachacamac, I left my previously opened water bottle behind when I went to the washroom and had to debate whether to buy a new one or risk the possibility of mine being tampered with. Although my driver seems uber trustworthy, I had to keep in mind that I am a girl traveling completely on my own and made up an excuse about wanting to buy a new bottle of water because it'd be cold for our tour. Also, on the way to the airport today, I had to stop off at the mall to pick up an iPhone charger (ya, I kinda fried mine... oops!). This would mean leaving my bag in the car with a driver. Instead, I asked him to come join me. I also had to put my trust in Tom, then my dinner companion, Gonzalez and my clubbing partner, Cristian. Lastly, I met a fellow Torontonian on this plane who I asked to watch my bag while I went to the washroom.

Ummm.... there seems to be a heck of a lot of barren desert below. I sure hope this isn't Talara...

Inca Ruins, Pisco Sours & Spanish Immersion

Wow, wow and wow! What an amazing day! I had arranged for Renato to take me to several local Incan ruins today. Once again, he offered me tidbits of information about Peruvian life. Apparently Peruvians eat a lot of chicken and fish here and don't believe in freezing their food since they have such a array of food available to them- fish from the coast, beans and 4000 (!) varieties of potatoes from inland, and fruits from the jungle. Apparently people in Lima don't eat cuy (guinea pig!) because they say it'd be like eating their own dog, but the Indigenous people in the Andes do. As we were driving down the freeway, people were casually crossing the multi-lane highway like it was nothing. As we drove past a favella (shanty town) I wanted to take a picture. Renato fully stopped the car and told me I could get out (at the side of a busy highway, may I remind you!) and take a picture. I decided I kind of liked all of my limbs securely attached to my body and wanted to keep them that way so I just snapped a few shots from safely inside of the car. The favellas are pretty interesting though. People 'invade' certain areas, primarily mountains it seems, and set up homes. They have no water or sewage, but eventually the government gives them titles in order to earn taxes from them.

Our first stop was Pachacamac, an archaelogical site made up of adobe and stone palaces and temple pyramids, and considered to be the vatican of the Andes. The most fascinating part for me is that not only was it inhabited by the Incas, but also by the Lima beginning about 100 AD, then the Waris, followed by the Ichsma. The Incas didn't arrive until about 1450. Their textiles and artifacts were beautifully preserved due to the dry climate. I walked upon the Templeo del Sol where they used to sacrifice llamas, textiles and even virgins during difficult times. I was also overwhelmed by sadness for the cultures of the Lima, Waris, Ichsma and Inca... we will never know their culture in depth, or hear their language spoken, or learn anything much about these people simply because another culture, the Spanish, decided that their way of life was superior. Thankfully, though, some of these sites still exist today, helping us to learn a little about these amazing ancient civilizations. How absolutely amazing it was to be able to marvel at something again!

Next site was Huaca Pucllana, a restored adobe ceremonial centre from the Limas dating back to AD 400. The 'bookshelf' technique that they used to build their adobe brick structures has held up to centuries of earthquakes that has caused devastation to modern day structures. The Limas who utilized this cathedral/government palace worshipped the sea and saw sharks as sacred. They sacrificed women, as only the best was given to their Goddess. The sad thing about many Peruvian archaelogical sites is that a number of them have been built over. Huaca Pucllana, for example, was a motor track smack in the middle of the city until it's excavation a mere 30 years ago. Kudos to the archaelogists who spent years excavating this site, brick by brick, to preserve Peru's amazing history. How amazing is it that so much fascinating history exists right in Lima, or, even more amazing, that I walked on the same pathways as some of the most interesting civilizations to inhabit this earth. It's mind blowing, really.

I went on this tour with a group of maybe 10-12 other people of various ages. Many of the only older folk couldn't manage the walk to the top of the temple, which was by far the highlight of the tour. After hearing so many people tell me to wait until retirement to travel, this very moment made me happy that I decided to embark upon my adventures now. Afterall, if you can't participate in the key experiences, what's the point? Not to say that old people shouldn't travel, I just choose not to wait until my limbs and my sense of adventure are no longer on par. Anyway, I also had the chance to see some llamas, alpacas, and examples of flora and fauna that would have existed during the time of the Lima.

My last ruin was a much smaller one called Huaca Huallamarca, which dates back to AD 200-500. As I climbed the steep ramp solo as onlookers watched me from below, I silently wondered how the heck I would get back down. Roll?! Luckily for me, after appreciating the gorgeous views from atop, I safely walked down to the base of the adobe pyramid.

After a lovely day at the ruins of Lima, I had Renato drop me off at the Incan Markets where my Spanish finally got a run for it's money. I wheeled and dealed and ended up with a gorgeous charm for my travel charm bracelet and a coca leaf pendant! After that I walked through the streets of Lima and snacked on a torjalla (sp?). Gross, don't bother trying it! I had two bites and was then asked by a lovely gentlemen to join him for dinner. The safe, responsible Jessica said run for the hills and don't look back. The other, adventurous Jessica told me to go for it. So I did. And we ended up having a lovely dinner with full Spanish conversation. It was challenging and absolutely amazing! Having had planted my farewell excuse well ahead of time (I had an amigo - not amiga- that I had to meet in an hour), I bid him goodnight and continued on with my night. During another Starbucks catch up with the family, I met a fellow English teacher from Cajamarca that had been evacuated from her school due to protests and road blocks that had turned violent. This makes me a bit worried about moving to Talara which is a few hours north of there, but we'll see. Anyway, exhausted from a full day walking in the sun, I started to make my way home. As I passed the lively clubbing district, I was a little sad that I hadn't had the opportunity to check out their nightlife. As if on queue, a guy came up and starting chatting with me and asked if I wanted to grab a drink. As tired as I was, I figured what the heck. How often am I in Lima with absolutely no responsibilities or places to be. We had a few drinks, danced a bit and then he respectfully walked me to my hotel and continued onto his own neighbourhood. The men here seem to be pretty respectful. They'll show their appreciation by a simple smile, or tell you that you're beautiful (tu eres bonita!) or inquire about your background. So far, nothing uncomfortable or disrespectful.

Overall, it has been an absolutely amazing day. From interesting Incan ruins to wonderfully challenging Spanish conversation with locals, I'm having a terrific time. It'll be sad to say goodbye to Lima tomorrow. I have no idea what Talara has in store for me. Guess I'll soon find out!

Buenos Dias, Lima!

I didn't sleep well last night at all! Maybe an hour at max! I was pretty weirded out by the window in my bathroom that leads into the hallway. I'm sure someone could climb through it if they really wanted to. I felt itchy all night, there were a ton of strange noises, and my lights flickered all night despite the switch being turned OFF! The fridge sounded like it was self mutilating or something horrific and I could hear every breath the people in the room beside me took. I definitely slept with my Leatherman in hand! Despite my lack of sleep, I couldn't waste my first day in Lima. True to his word, Tom met me in the lobby of my hotel bright and early. He showed me around the gorgeous coast of Miraflores and then treated me to lunch and a local beer, Cusequena. It was so odd to see Christmas decorations and hear Christmas carols blasting while in a warm climate. It almost felt like someone had just forgotten to take down the decorations from last year and it wasn't actually Christmas time at all! Anyway, we walked through their gorgeous coastal mall, Larcomar, and on up to their main plaza. The park was filled with the smallest, cutest cats ever! I soooo wanted to take one (or two... ok actually three!) back to the hotel with me, but just like the monkeys in Costa Rica, I did my best to restrain myself. Anyway, Tom and I parted ways at the park- he to return to work and I to explore. It was nice to have someone who is culturally similar to me and who speaks the same language to show me around, but it also meant that I spent most of my first day and a half speaking solely English. That being said, I'm glad I met him! After we parted ways, I plopped down into a cozy chair in the local Starbucks (yes, it's true, I can find one wherever I am in the world! It's like a magnetic force!) to grab a water and some wifi. After catching up with my family, I grabbed a quick dinner, did some people watching, and settled in for an early night.

Overall, I'm enchanted with Peru. Lima seems to be very big city-esque with a melody of beeps and chirps (the taxi drivers beep at you to see if you want a ride- it scares the crap out of me every time!), fabulous smelling men (they smell like the Abercrombie stores! Yum!), and a whole new level of PDA. It's basically a Spanish speaking Toronto! Tomorrow, I'm hoping to visit some local ruins and make the most of my last day in Lima before heading to the great unknown- Talara!

It's Not Like It's Going To Happen, It's Happening!

Ok, I swear I'm destined to fall into a plane toilet! Every single time I use the washroom on any plane I'm on, there just so happens to be turbulence!! :)

The rest of my flight experience was just amazing. Most of the people in my surrounding area were middle class business men, but I decided to be upfront and introduced myself to my aisle partner. It ended up being a great decision. He was very pleasant and had been to Lima a handful of times. He offered to walk me around the district of Miraflores tomorrow.

The flight came to an end pretty quickly. Touching down was pretty surreal. I'm here! On Peruvian soil! I was greeted by a lovely fresh, floral scent as I disembarked the plane. As I walked through the hallways leading to customs, I was overloaded with written and verbal Spanish and I just ate it all up. Tom, my aisle partner, offered to stay with me and make sure my pre-arranged car came to pick me up. Apparently flagging down a taxi here is risky business! My bags were delayed and all I could think of was a story of a friend of a friend who ended up in a Peruvian jail for drugs she didn't smuggle. But before I could panic, my bag arrived and I was off!

As you leave the airport security area after getting your backs, each person has to push a button. If a green light appears, you're good to go and can leave. If a red light appears, you get pulled back for extra screening. Oh boy... my heart can't handle this LOL! As I walked up to the button, I repeated my mantra "Please turn green, please turn green!" Luckily for me, the lady motioned for me to leave without pushing the button! Score!

Entering the receiving area of the airport was pretty insane. It was just a sea of faces, people holding up name signs and eagerly awaiting their companions. The sheer number of people was slightly overwhelming, so I was pretty relieved to see a sign board with my name prominently displayed in red. It was amusing, and also slightly disturbing, to see that the driver had printed out my Facebook display picture in order to identify me. Renato, the driver, was a wealth of information as he drove me to my hotel in Miraflores, one of the trendy, touristy districts of Lima. He proceeded to spew out more info than my two-hours-of-sleep brain could digest: be careful of traffic- cars don't stop for pedestrians because they're bigger and stronger; the grass has to be watered 2-4 times per day because it never rains in Lima; Lima was built on a desert; taxi drivers often drive people off into a deserted area and rob them. Ummm... thanks Renato! I feel much safer now considering the fact that I'm IN A TAXI!!! Thankfully, Renato got me to the hotel in one piece with all of my belongings in tow. After contacting my panicked family (my mom was getting ready to hop on the next flight to Peru when she didn't hear from me!) I settled in for my first sleep in South America!

Take Off!

Saying goodbye to my family at the airport was extremely difficult. I kept wanting to keep them in my view as long as possible as I walked towards security. It was like my eyes couldn't get enough of them. I wanted to remember every detail of them and not waste a second of the precious time we had left looking elsewhere.

After a few tearful goodbyes, I settled into my cozy reclining seat in Executive First Class (Thanks, Deborah-Ann!!)- undoubtedly my last bit of luxury for the next few months! As my plane to Lima, Peru begins to taxi down the runway, I feel oddly calm. It could be the complimentary champagne, or it could be the fact that the enormity of my adventure hasn't yet set in. It feels incredibly surreal. Am I actually doing this?! Am I on a plane, by myself, flying to a foreign South American country?! Am I going to wake up and realize this is all a dream? For the first time in a few days, I feel more excited than afraid. When I get off this plane, I'll be stepping foot into a completely foreign country, continent, culture and language. I will be achieving three major life goals all in one shot. How exhilarating!

Well.... there was take off. It was quite an overwhelming moment for me. I simultaneously felt blessed, excited, lucky and terrified. I'm really doing this!

Ready or Not, Here I Come!

I feel like I'm going to hyperventilate! What am I doing?! I can hardly fathom the fact that this time tomorrow I'll be in the sky, by myself, halfway to Peru! I'm simultaneously excited and terrified. This will be the first of so many things... First solo trip, first Christmas away from friends and family, first TESL job and first trip of this length. I hardly know what to expect but I suppose it's best to have no expectations. I'll just take it as it comes. For all you know, I may hate it and be back TOMORROW! Doubtful, but we'll see how it goes. See you soon, Peru!